Apple pie is one of the first things autumn beckons, but what if it’s not quite autumn and not quite yet the end of summer? It seems too early to be indulging in a warm piece of apple pie but this deconstructed version transforms the components of what makes apple pie so pleasurable. Stewed apples are served with lattice cookies that stand in as pie crust and a scoop of cinnamon ice cream, reminding us that it it isn’t yet too cold to be still eating ice cream.
September has rolled in and with it warming comfort food, gum boots, and hand-knit scarves, and rain in the air. It doesn’t seem too long ago that it was summer. Technically, it still is but it’s easy to forget when you’re back in school; leaves changing colour and crunching underfoot and the weather becoming cooler and the air crisper in the mornings. Personally, I embrace all seasons and the merits that come with it and I’m thankful to live in a city with a pretty mild climate. It doesn’t even always snow (when I was a kid that was a big deal). I like summer, but I also love bundling up; there’s a sense of cozy comfort about it. (And I’ll tell you now: I have a weakness for scarves, especially those that are knitted. I sometimes even layer them.)
So, not completely giving up on summer but also acknowledging that autumn hasn’t fully settled in, I made this basically deconstructed version of apple pie. The nucleus of this idea started with a dessert called “Apple of My Eye” in Elizabeth Falkner’s Demolition Desserts, a cookbook based upon the success of her bakery Citizen Cake in San Francisco.